The island of 37 inhabitants - not counting the goats! Sailing into the little fishing village,it feels like a totally different planet to the buzzing metropolis of Samos, just 25 miles north.Some of the older folks here have scarcely left the island in decades, and everyone issomeone’s cousin.

The main "cool" spot on Arki is Manoli’s taverna. A little shaded courtyard, withspeakers arranged randomly in the trees - it’s a music and flower-filled oasis onthis rocky little island. The owner is most definitely "Mr Cool": Manoli has lived foryears in Athens and Germany, but chose to return to his home island for the quiet life.Happily for us, he also brought back with him a great love and collection of music: it's notunusual for a spontaneous evening of dancing to break out here!

A 15 min hike up the hill to an tiny old church gives a breath-taking view of the surroundingislands.