Kos is much noted in guide books for its traditional architecture and links with ancient celebrities. There's a beautifully intact 12^th century castle overlooking the harbour and extensive ruins scattered around the old part of the city. It's also the home of the famous plane tree under which Hippocrates supposedly taught his students—the fact that this particular tree could only be at most 600 yrs old doesn't seem to discourage the guide books from spreading the rumour!

What many of these informative guides fail to comment on, however, is the newer architecture—the labyrinth streets of bars, discos and tavernas. In season, it positively throngs with scantily-dressed Europeans performing the traditional Mediterranean mating ritual—oops, I mean promenade— up and down the harbour front. The old town—by popular local usage now renamed "bar town"—will keep you partying till 5am if you feel so inclined!

It's a big island, and a lively introduction to the Greek nightlife scene. Not exactly what you'd call "traditional Greece" —it's gotten very touristy these days. Still, it's a fun contrast to some of the more tranquil islands on our route.