After breakfast, Mesut—our Turkish guide—will pick us up in his caique, and we'll motor round to the entrance of the river mouth. This in itself is something travel photographers would hock their best lens for; a tiny sandy islet protecting the mouth of the river, pine trees lining the beaches surrounding the entrance; the river winding inland around tall reed banks. As we pass over the sandbar and into the narrow, reed-clad channels, it feels like all we'd need to add would be some safari-type gear, and the African Queen picture would be complete! This image is quickly dispelled as the river opens up further on, and the Lycian cliff tombs come into view. These amazingly complex carvings date from around 3rd & 4th centuries BC—this is now most definitely a journey into the ancient world.

The ancient city of Caunos is the centrepiece of the river trip (though just the scenery and fun in the mudbaths are a large part of it!). Even people who've claimed little interest in "piles of old rocks" have emerged well and truly impressed with the sense of history that emanates from this place; the extent of the remaining ruins still creates a strong impression of the city that was once a lively and bustling seaport.

Lunch in the little town of Dalyan, followed by a visit to the hot springs and mud baths—a chance to be a total kid and completely cake yourself in mud, just like your Mom always told you not to! Then hang out in the hot springs for a while—and if you feel in need of cooling off, jump into the more refreshing waters of the river running alongside! The boat will then take us up to the freshwater lake at the head of the river—another chance to swim. On the return, we'll also stop at Iztuzu (a protected turtle reserve); a walk along the sandy beach, lie out for a while, or swim more in the ocean.